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Updated docs for backlight + photos
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brickbots committed May 6, 2023
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2 changes: 1 addition & 1 deletion README.md
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Expand Up @@ -18,7 +18,7 @@ My hope is that other people will find this combination of functionality useful,
* Zero setup: Just turn it on and point it at the sky!
* Accurate pointing: Onboard GPS determines location and time while the camera determines where the scope is pointing. Inertial Measurement Unit tracks scope motion and updates sky position between camera solves
* Self-contained: Includes catalog search/filtering, sky/object charting, push-to guidance and logging all via the screen and keypad on the unit.
* Dark site friendly: Red Oled screen has wide brightness adjustment, right down to 'off'. No need for bright cell phones or tablets
* Dark site friendly: Red OLED screen and soft backlit keys have wide brightness adjustment, right down to 'off'. No need for bright cell phones or tablets
* Easy access: Can be mounted by the eyepiece just like a finder.
- Wifi Access Point / SkySafari Integration: The PiFinder can act as a WIFI access point to connect your tablet or phone to sync SkySafari or other planetarium software with your scope.

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4 changes: 4 additions & 0 deletions docs/BOM.md
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Expand Up @@ -10,6 +10,10 @@ These are the electronic bits needed to build the Display/Keypad unit that fits
| --- | -------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| 1 | PCB Set | https://github.com/brickbots/PiFinder/tree/main/gerbers | You'll need a PiFinder board and the PiFinder top plate |
| 17 | 6 x 6mm x 7mm PCB Momentary Switch 4 Pin DIP | | Diptonics DTS63K 1nm recommended |
| 17 | Red 1.8 mm (miniplast) leds| https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/78-TLUR2401 | These need to be 2.5W x 3.3L x 3H to fit properly|
| 1 | 2N222A NPN Transitor | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/637-2N2222A | Diptonics DTS63K 1nm recommended |
| 1 | 22ohm Axial Resistor | | R01 |
| 1 | 330ohm Axial Resistor | R02 | |
| 1 | Waveshare 1.5 RGB Oled | https://www.waveshare.com/wiki/1.5inch_OLED_Module | |
| 1 | Adafruit IMU Fusion Breakout - BNO055 | https://www.adafruit.com/product/4646 | |
| 1 | 2x20 40 Pin Stacking Female Header | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827THC7R | Depending on your heatsink/clearance you'll need long pins on this to make up the gap |
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36 changes: 31 additions & 5 deletions docs/build_guide.md
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# Build Guide

Welcome to the PiFinder build guide! Please consult the [Bill of Materials](./BOM.md) for a full list of parts required and reach out with any questions. Below are all the parts you'll need for assembly except for the Raspberry Pi model 4 and 3D printed case parts.
Welcome to the PiFinder build guide! Please consult the [Bill of Materials](./BOM.md) for a full list of parts required and reach out with any questions. Below are many of the parts you'll need for assembly. Not pictured here are the parts for the keypad backlight which is a feature in current versions of the PiFinder.

This guide currently contains a mix of photos from the older, non-backlit, version and the new backlit version, but the build is the same once you get the backlight components installed.

![Part Layout](../images/build_guide/IMG_4633.jpeg)
## PiFinder Hat
A key part of the PiFinder is a custom 'Hat' which matches the general form factor of the Raspberry Pi and connects to it's GPIO header. It contains the switches, screen and Inertial Measurement Unit.

It's all through-hole components, so should be approachable to even beginners... but the component build order is important as some items block access to others.

### Backlight Components
The two resistors are an easy place to start. R2 is the vertical oriented 330ohm part and R1 is the 22ohm oriented horizontally. Direction does not matter with these, just make sure they sit flat and trim the leads on the back when they are soldered.

![Resistors](../images/build_guide/led_build_02.jpeg)

The LED's are the next lowest components, so they go next. Polarity matters here, so mind the direction. The longer lead of the LED should go through the round hole in the footprint. The photo below shows the orientation

![LED Orientation](../images/build_guide/led_build_03.jpeg)

Take you time and make sure each is positioned well. They should be pretty uniform, but little inconsistencies don't matter too much. I like to place them all in the board, turn it upright and solder one leg of each. Then I go back and press on each LED as I reheat the one soldered leg to make sure it's sitting flat and even-ish.

![LED Orientation](../images/build_guide/led_build_05.jpeg)

Once I've verified they all look okay, I'll solder the other leg and trim all the leads.

![LED Orientation](../images/build_guide/led_build_06.jpeg)

The final component for the keypad backlight is the drive transistor. It's located right by R2 and the GPIO connector. When inserting the part, the flat side of the package should line up with the flat side of the silkscreen. Once it's inserted fold the flat side of the transistor agains the PCB so it will be clear of the keypad cover PCB

You can see the position/orientation in the image below. Once you've got it situated, solder it in and clip the leads.

![LED Orientation](../images/build_guide/led_build_08.jpeg)

### Switches
Switches are easy and can go first. Place each one on a footprint and press it down fully. Once they are all inserted, before you start soldering visually inspect them for any that are tilted. It's also a good idea to place the top legend plate over them to make sure they all clear the holes properly. Then solder them up!
![PCB with switches](../images/build_guide/IMG_4635.jpeg)
Switches are easy and can go next. Place each one on a footprint and press it down fully. Once they are all inserted, before you start soldering visually inspect them for any that are tilted.

![PCB with switches](../images/build_guide/led_build_10.jpeg)

![PCB with switches installed and leveled](../images/build_guide/IMG_4636.jpeg)
It's also a good idea to place the top legend plate over them to make sure they all clear the holes properly. Then solder them up!

![PCB with switches soldered](../images/build_guide/IMG_4639.jpeg)
![PCB with switches soldered](../images/build_guide/led_build_11.jpeg)

### IMU
The Inertial Measurement unit is next. The IMU has an annoyingly bright green LED on it, which you will probably want to paint over with a drop of black nail polish. It can be done after it's soldered, but it's much easier before hand. See the image below to ID the offending component.
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2 changes: 2 additions & 0 deletions docs/user_guide.md
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Expand Up @@ -28,6 +28,8 @@ Along with the 1.5" oled screen, the keypad has three primary parts, a numeric k
- If the GPS has locked and provided a location, the GPS square in the status bar will be filled in and the G will be in black.
- The solver status will show either C (Camera) or I (IMU) depending on the source of the last position fix. The background of this square fades from red to black, over six seconds, indicating the time since last solve.

### Brightness Adjustment
At any time you can hold down the _ENT_ key and press the _UP_/_DN_ keys to adjust the screen and backlight brightness together. If you want to change the keypad brightness relative to the screen, you can set this in the Options page of the Status screen with the rest of the global options. The setting there allows you to make the keypad brighter or dimmer relative to the screen or turn it off all together. Once you have the two balanced to your liking, the _ENT + UP/DN_ should be all you need during and observing session to fine-tune the overall PiFinder brightness.

### Power Save Mode

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